The river
Dart rises on Dartmoor and receives many tributaries as it flows south for
46 miles through rich Devon countryside, opening to a wide ,deep estuary
before entering the English Channel.
The area is steeped in maritime history, being home to both Raleigh and
Drake. Generations of naval cadets, from many countries, have learnt
seamanship at the Britannia Royal Naval College, which overlooks the deep,
safe estuarine harbour and the ancient town of Dartmouth.
The station in Kingswear, across the river from Dartmouth and the
terminus of the preserved line from Paignton, commenced business in 1864,
and makes a good staring point, the Trail lying between the railway and
riverbank. There is a fascination for all ages to find a steam engine
labouring past, just a few feet from the walker.
Soon leaving the Dart and
entering a permissive path where ,on sunny days, adders may sleep, the
Trail begins to climb up the hillside, eventually entering the National
Trust’s Long Wood . Ever upward through sturdy Sessile Oaks, some over 100
feet tall, the mind can wander back to the days of local shipbuilding
when the Royal Navy was supplied with many warships fashioned from Dart
oak.
At the summit, views of Torbay and a choice of rights of way, all
signposted with distances attached and a decision made to follow the
Trail down over fields to Greenway, the summer home of Agatha Christie
which she described as ‘’the loveliest place in all the world ‘’ .
Greenway and its gardens, now in the care of the National Trust ,are well
worth exploration, the Trail passing directly through the gardens.Then,
steeply down to the Dart at Greenway Quay, here walkers have to ring a
bell to summon the ferryman for the short crossing to Dittisham , where
the quayside Ferry Inn makes an excellent refreshment stop, 5 miles from
Kingswear.
Dittisham , an ancient village of cosy cottages and deep, steep lanes,
numbers both James Dyson, of vacuum cleaner fame and the Dimbleby brothers
amongst its summer residents. The Trail divides here-north for 8 miles to
Totnes or 41/2 miles back to Dartmouth.
Taking the shorter option involves another steep climb along a field path
with marker posts before entering an oak-wood and emerging to the most
glorious view of the river and estuary far below. A right of way leads
downhill to a small creek, views ahead being always extensive and
charming. Uphill again , eventually entering Dartmouth along Clarence
Street and down Brown’s Hill Steps. This was the original entrance to
Dartmouth, so narrow and steep that it could only be negotiated by
packhorses and thus for many years no coach could arrive in town.
Almost ten miles of superb walking, with interest everywhere, on a well
marked trail, secure in the knowledge that a walker has permission and is
not trespassing. A walker from Ireland rapidly becomes envious of
Great Britain’s network of public rights of way, of their generally
satisfactory signage and maintenance . Envious too of the obvious public
appreciation of these Ways, of pride in their history, and the wish to
hand them on to those who will come after.
How can it be that Ireland is so very different,--the walker not always
welcome, politicians and the public mostly unaware of the potential
arising from agreed access.? It is so very unfortunate that, often, we
–and our visitors-are trespassers when we seek recreation in beautiful
places .
With a big birthday coming up I started to think about undertaking a
special walk to commemorate the occasion. My mind wandered – perhaps the
Alps, maybe the Pyrenees – oh so many great areas to explore – which one
would it be? The answer came unexpectedly whilst I was idly flicking
through the TV channels one evening – there was Julia Bradbury climbing
Dent Fell on the first day of her Coast to Coast walk. This was the
one for me (I mean the walk) and so, I began to suss things out. I
“googled” it – about 192 miles, from St.Bee’s on the Irish Sea
coast to Robin Hood’s Bay beside the North Sea, over a variety of
mountains, hills and plains, through three National Parks with great
scenery and lots of wildlife interest.
Let’s go! – not so quick. I decided to do the walk in 14 days
(incidentally, it has been run in under 40 hours) so where would I stay? I
made it easy on myself by using the services of Contours Walking Holidays who
booked all the B&B’s I would need on route. Also, my days for carrying a
40lb rucksack are over – a nice little light day sack will do for me
thanks. Contour Walking Holidays sorted this out for me by employing
another company called Packhorse which collected, and then moved my
heavy case from one B&B to another.
A
couple of weeks before my walk I received my information pack – maps,
guide book, B&B directions etc ..... and, an “emergency” contact number
just in case – precisely the right amount of detail. The walk was broken
up into 14 chunks of varying distances – the shortest day was about 9
miles – the longest 23 miles. Thoughtfully the shorter days were devoted
to the more strenuous sections in the higher and rugged mountain areas.
And
so, in early May I found myself performing two little ceremonies that most
coast to coasters do. I dipped the toe of my boot in the Irish Sea at St.
Bee’s and selected a pebble (not too heavy) – and then took my first step
in the footsteps of Alfred Wainwright who first walked this way in
the early 1970’s. I’ll not burden you with a detailed day to day account –
but every day was special and interesting in its own way. The coastal path
leading from St. Bee’s was fringed with wild flowers and overhead Fulmars
manoeuvred on “wooden” wings. At Black Sail Youth Hostel deep in
Ennerdale the air was full of different accents and languages as
fellow travellers took time to chat before heading up Loft Beck and
crossing the slatey wilderness of Honister Pass. In fact, this
meeting and mingling of like minded strangers is a vital part of the Coast
to Coast. The walk attracts people from all over the world – I met people
from as far apart as USA and Australia – some walking in a group with
friends, one with a dog, others like myself walking solo but joining up
with fellow walkers for a mile or two as the opportunity arose. In this
way many friendships were made.
Click thumbnails for bigger pictures
The
top end of Borrowdale valley is one of my favourite mountain areas
– a Cuckoo greeted me as I descended into it – and there was even a short,
easy via ferata above the tumbling waters of the River Derwent.
Climbing out of it I followed a scenic ridge which took me over Calf
Crag, Gibson Knott and on to “The Lion and the Lamb” – just one
of the variant opportunities along the way. My third day in the Lake
District took me through Grisedale Pass. This time I decided to
climb St. Sunday Crag with all its scrambling possibilities – other
fit walkers go for Helvellyn and descend by Striding Edge. Next day the
walk up to High Street was a delight – then a dog-leg over
Kidsty Pike (at 780m the highest point on the “standard” route) which
allowed us to look down on a herd of deer. We scanned the skies above for
Haweswater’s resident Golden Eagle – no joy, and no time to linger as a
short, fierce hail shower peppered the ground turning the higher slopes
white.
Beyond Shap very different habitats invited exploration – at first
the trail crossed the grey “bones” of karst scenery with ferns sticking
their heads up out of the grykes. There were sparkling streams with tiny
trout, tumbling waterfalls too, and later, in the Yorkshire Dales
National Park stretches of brown haggy ground thankfully not too wet
and boot sucking. Perhaps the most fascinating part meandered through the
mining wastelands above and beyond Crackpot Hall – hushes, rusting
remnants and dignified decaying buildings encouraged investigation. If you
like industrial archaeology you will love this area – however, misty
conditions would make it tricky to navigate.
Arriving at Richmond was a bit of a shock to the system after all
the hilly miles of the previous days. However, it is a beautiful town
packed with fascinating buildings lining cobbled streets. Some coast to
coasters stay an extra day here to give their weary legs a chance to
recover and to soak up some of its history. However, the Vale of
Mowbray beckoned – a lowland area lasting 23 miles crossing pastures
grazed by friendly cows, through fields glowing yellow with Oil Seed Rape
– following public rights of way which made use of a great variety of
stiles. Some walkers find this section boring – not me – butterflies
fluttered and bees buzzed above flower lined banks, scattered feathers
provided evidence of a Sparrowhawk kill and a Little Owl winked back at me
– lots to see for those that look. Even so, it was with tired legs that I
ran the gauntlet of crossing the A19 at the end of the day – oh,
for a footbridge.
Blacksail Youth Hostel
The
final few days traversed the North York Moors National Park – a
delightful area with gentle ups and downs – following ancient “trods”
through forests and along escarpments. There is a intriguing section which
follows an abandoned Victorian mineral railway line which contours the
slopes for seemingly endless miles – a place to let your mind wander and
legs stride out – where the calls of Red Grouse and Golden Plover ring in
your ears.
Throughout the walk one day seemed to melt into the next – life was simple
– a comfy bed, a good breakfast, pleasant company and a new walk for the
day ahead not knowing what was round the next corner. And, all too soon I
walked round the last corner into the charming village of Robin Hood’s
Bay and down its steep street . Here it was that I completed the
little ceremonies began all those miles ago in the west – I dipped the toe
of my boot in the North Sea and threw my pebble into its salty waters.
Would I recommend this walk – most definitely – but don’t leave it too
long.
Useful references – “A Coast to
Coast Walk” by A. Wainwright; published by Frances Lincoln
“A Coast to Coast Walk” by
M.Wainwright; published by Aurumpress
Maps – Coast to Coast West and Coast
to Coast East published by Harvey: scale 1.40000
The Isles of Scilly, situated 120 miles
south of Rosslare and 30 miles west of Land’s End, may not, at first
sight, appear to be a walking destination.
Travel to the five inhabited, low lying
islands is relatively expensive and accommodation is scarce but the
rewards, in terms of scenery and an ‘away from it all’ feeling, are
suitable recompense.
Whilst it would be possible to take a car,
using surface transport to Great Britain and a subsequent long drive,
costs of flying to Bristol or Exeter and then hiring a vehicle, will be
very similar. As Jet 2 has opened a summer service to Newquay in ’09 from
Belfast , this provides an ideal entry to both Cornwall and onward to
Scilly, using the twin otter aircraft of Skybus. The ability to have
perhaps a weeks’ walking on Dartmoor and a few days on the islands is
tempting.
A more unusual approach is to take the big
British International Helicopters Sikorsky 61 from Penzance and enjoy
magnificent views from less than 1000 feet. If ‘choppers’ are not your
thing, the sturdy little Scillonian 3 sails daily from Penzance, taking
just under three hours to reach the islands.
The first impression of the islands will be
the clarity of the air and surrounding sea, pollution being less evident.
On the largest island-St Mary’s- there is, surprisingly, much farmland,
with little fields surrounded by high hedges, producing early spring
flowers. The tiny island capital, Hugh Town, has most shops and facilities
available, with daily boats leaving for the neighbouring islands. A
limited variety of accommodation is available, mostly in the town and
early booking is advisable. The Tourist Information Centre (01720422892)
will provide the necessary brochures.
A particular recommendation might be Star Castle, built in 1597 in the
form of an eight pointed star, on the hill top above the town. With its
solid, thick walls, surrounding battery and wonderful views, it has been
loving updated to become the winner of the 2009 Island Hotel of the Year
award. It is very expensive—but impossibly romantic-the venue for a
special occasion?
Walking is varied on St Mary’s with
beautiful rocky coastal paths and extensive views leading to secluded bays
of fine white sand or along quiet lanes in the interior, with virtually no
motorised traffic. Tresco has downland, castles and of course, the famous
Abbey Gardens while St Martin’s is noted for long sandy beaches and boasts
the most southerly vineyard in Britain. Bryher and St Agnes are also well
worth exploring on an afternoon walk.
To follow a long tree shaded lane to the
seaside graveyard at Old Town on an early summer evening, with
nothing but birdsong and a distant calling cuckoo in the ears, to sit
quietly near the grave of the late Prime Minister Harold Wilson and absorb
the utter peace and tranquillity of the surroundings, is a reminder of how
Mr and Mrs Wilson , in the midst of busy lives, returned each year for
forty years to their humble cottage near Hugh Town, to find a slower pace
of life.
That tranquillity is still available and
what better way to enjoy than on foot.
