Contributed walks                                          

 

DART VALLEY TRAIL

The river Dart rises on Dartmoor and receives many tributaries as it flows south for 46 miles through rich Devon countryside, opening to a wide ,deep estuary before entering the English Channel.
The area is steeped in maritime history, being home to both Raleigh and Drake. Generations of naval cadets, from many countries, have learnt seamanship at the Britannia Royal Naval College, which overlooks the deep, safe estuarine harbour and the ancient town of Dartmouth.
The  station in Kingswear, across the river from Dartmouth and the terminus of the preserved line from Paignton, commenced business in 1864, and makes a good staring point, the Trail lying between the railway and riverbank. There is a fascination for all ages to find a steam engine labouring past, just a few feet from the walker.



Soon leaving the Dart and entering a permissive path where ,on sunny days, adders may sleep, the Trail begins to climb up the hillside, eventually entering the  National Trust’s Long Wood . Ever upward through sturdy Sessile Oaks, some over 100 feet tall,  the mind can wander back to the days of local shipbuilding when the Royal Navy was supplied with many warships fashioned from Dart oak.
At the summit, views of Torbay and a choice of rights of way, all signposted with distances attached and  a decision made to follow the Trail down over fields to Greenway, the summer home of Agatha Christie which she described as ‘’the loveliest place in all the world ‘’ . Greenway and its gardens,  now in the care of the National Trust ,are well worth exploration, the Trail passing directly through the gardens.Then, steeply down to the Dart at Greenway Quay, here  walkers have to ring a bell to summon the ferryman for the short crossing to Dittisham , where the quayside Ferry Inn makes an excellent refreshment stop, 5 miles from Kingswear.
Dittisham , an ancient village of cosy cottages and deep, steep lanes, numbers both James Dyson, of vacuum cleaner fame and the Dimbleby brothers amongst its summer residents. The Trail divides here-north for 8 miles to Totnes or 41/2 miles back to Dartmouth.
Taking the shorter option involves another steep climb along a field path with marker posts before entering an oak-wood and emerging to the most glorious view of the river and estuary far below. A right of way leads downhill to a small creek, views ahead being always extensive and charming. Uphill again , eventually entering Dartmouth along Clarence Street and down Brown’s Hill Steps. This was the original entrance to Dartmouth, so narrow and steep that it could only be negotiated by packhorses and thus for many years no coach could arrive in town.
Almost ten miles of superb walking, with interest everywhere, on a well marked trail, secure in the knowledge that a walker has permission  and is not trespassing.   A walker from  Ireland rapidly becomes envious  of Great Britain’s network of public rights of way, of their generally satisfactory signage and maintenance . Envious too of the obvious public appreciation of these Ways, of pride in their history, and the wish to hand them on to those who  will come after.
How can it be that Ireland is so very different,--the walker not always welcome,  politicians and the public mostly unaware of the potential arising from agreed access.? It is so very unfortunate that, often, we –and our visitors-are trespassers when we seek recreation in beautiful places .

R.Carser
 

Coast to Coast walk.



George on his 'Coast to Coast'

With a big birthday coming up I started to think about undertaking a special walk to commemorate the occasion. My mind wandered – perhaps the Alps, maybe the Pyrenees – oh so many great areas to explore – which one would it be? The answer came unexpectedly whilst I was idly flicking through the TV channels one evening – there was Julia Bradbury climbing Dent Fell on the first day of her Coast to Coast walk. This was the one for me (I mean the walk) and so, I began to suss things out. I “googled” it – about 192 miles, from St.Bee’s on the Irish Sea coast to Robin Hood’s Bay beside the North Sea, over a variety of mountains, hills and plains, through three National Parks with great scenery and lots of wildlife interest.

 Let’s go! – not so quick. I decided to do the walk in 14 days (incidentally, it has been run in under 40 hours) so where would I stay? I made it easy on myself by using the services of Contours Walking Holidays who booked all the B&B’s I would need on route. Also, my days for carrying a 40lb rucksack are over – a nice little light day sack will do for me thanks. Contour Walking Holidays sorted this out for me by employing another company called Packhorse which collected, and then moved my heavy case from one B&B to another.

A couple of weeks before my walk I received my information pack – maps, guide book, B&B directions etc .....   and, an “emergency” contact number just in case – precisely the right amount of detail. The walk was broken up into 14 chunks of varying distances – the shortest day was about 9 miles – the longest 23 miles. Thoughtfully the shorter days were devoted to the more strenuous sections in the higher and rugged mountain areas.

And so, in early May I found myself performing two little ceremonies that most coast to coasters do. I dipped the toe of my boot in the Irish Sea at St. Bee’s and selected a pebble (not too heavy) – and then took my first step in the footsteps of Alfred Wainwright who first walked this way in the early 1970’s. I’ll not burden you with a detailed day to day account – but every day was special and interesting in its own way. The coastal path leading from St. Bee’s was fringed with wild flowers and overhead Fulmars manoeuvred on “wooden” wings. At Black Sail Youth Hostel deep in Ennerdale the air was full of different accents and languages as fellow travellers took time to chat before heading up Loft Beck and crossing the slatey wilderness of Honister Pass. In fact, this meeting and mingling of like minded strangers is a vital part of the Coast to Coast. The walk attracts people from all over the world – I met people from as far apart as USA and Australia – some walking in a group with friends, one with a dog, others like myself walking solo but joining up with fellow walkers for a mile or two as the opportunity arose. In this way many friendships were made.

 

                 Typical signpost on route.                 Crackpot Hall                 Beggar's Bridge

Click thumbnails for bigger pictures

The top end of Borrowdale valley is one of my favourite mountain areas – a Cuckoo greeted me as I descended into it – and there was even a short, easy via ferata above the tumbling waters of the River Derwent. Climbing out of it I followed a scenic ridge which took me over Calf Crag, Gibson Knott and on to “The Lion and the Lamb” – just one of the variant opportunities along the way. My third day in the Lake District took me through Grisedale Pass. This time I decided to climb St. Sunday Crag with all its scrambling possibilities – other fit walkers go for Helvellyn and descend by Striding Edge. Next day the walk up to High Street was a delight – then a dog-leg over Kidsty Pike (at 780m the highest point on the “standard” route) which allowed us to look down on a herd of deer. We scanned the skies above for Haweswater’s resident Golden Eagle – no joy, and no time to linger as a short, fierce hail shower peppered the ground turning the higher slopes white.

Beyond Shap very different habitats invited exploration – at first the trail crossed the grey “bones” of karst scenery with ferns sticking their heads up out of the grykes. There were sparkling streams with tiny trout, tumbling waterfalls too, and later, in the Yorkshire Dales National Park stretches of brown haggy ground thankfully not too wet and boot sucking. Perhaps the most fascinating part meandered through the mining wastelands above and beyond Crackpot Hall – hushes, rusting remnants and dignified decaying buildings encouraged investigation. If you like industrial archaeology you will love this area – however, misty conditions would make it tricky to navigate.

Arriving at Richmond was a bit of a shock to the system after all the hilly miles of the previous days. However, it is a beautiful town packed with fascinating buildings lining cobbled streets. Some coast to coasters stay an extra day here to give their weary legs a chance to recover and to soak up some of its history. However, the Vale of Mowbray beckoned – a lowland area lasting 23 miles crossing pastures grazed by friendly cows, through fields glowing yellow with Oil Seed Rape – following public rights of way which made use of a great variety of stiles. Some walkers find this section boring – not me – butterflies fluttered and bees buzzed above flower lined banks, scattered feathers provided evidence of a Sparrowhawk kill and a Little Owl winked back at me – lots to see for those that look. Even so, it was with tired legs that I ran the gauntlet of crossing the A19 at the end of the day – oh, for a footbridge.

Blacksail Youth Hostel

The final few days traversed the North York Moors National Park – a delightful area with gentle ups and downs – following ancient “trods” through forests and along escarpments. There is a intriguing section which follows an abandoned Victorian mineral railway line which contours the slopes for seemingly endless miles – a place to let your mind wander and legs stride out – where the calls of Red Grouse and Golden Plover ring in your ears.

Throughout the walk one day seemed to melt into the next – life was simple – a comfy bed, a good breakfast, pleasant company and a new walk for the day ahead not knowing what was round the next corner. And, all too soon I walked round the last corner into the charming village of Robin Hood’s Bay and down its steep street . Here it was that I completed the little ceremonies began all those miles ago in the west – I dipped the toe of my boot in the North Sea and threw my pebble into its salty waters.

Would I recommend this walk – most definitely – but don’t leave it too long.

Useful references –        “A Coast to Coast Walk” by A. Wainwright; published by Frances Lincoln

                                    “A Coast to Coast Walk” by M.Wainwright; published by Aurumpress

                                    Maps – Coast to Coast West and Coast to Coast East published by Harvey: scale 1.40000

                                                  

Contributed by George Acheson ( Mourne Ramblers )

 

Some spring pictures from Rathlin ~ Ronnie Irvine

A trip to Scilly Isles

 

The Isles of Scilly, situated 120 miles south of Rosslare and 30 miles west of Land’s End, may not, at first sight, appear to be a walking destination.

Travel to the five inhabited, low lying islands is relatively expensive and accommodation is scarce but the rewards, in terms of scenery and an ‘away from it all’ feeling, are suitable recompense.

Whilst it would be possible to take a car, using surface transport to Great Britain and a subsequent long drive, costs of flying to Bristol or Exeter and then hiring a vehicle, will be very similar. As Jet 2 has opened a summer service to Newquay in ’09 from Belfast , this provides an ideal entry to both Cornwall and onward to Scilly, using the twin otter aircraft of Skybus. The ability to have perhaps a weeks’ walking on Dartmoor and a few days on the islands is tempting.

A more unusual approach is to take the big British International Helicopters Sikorsky 61 from Penzance and enjoy magnificent views from less than 1000 feet. If ‘choppers’ are not your thing, the sturdy little Scillonian 3 sails daily from Penzance, taking just under three hours to reach the islands.

The first impression of the islands will be the clarity of the air and surrounding sea, pollution being less evident. On the largest island-St Mary’s- there is, surprisingly, much farmland, with little fields surrounded by high hedges, producing early spring flowers. The tiny island capital, Hugh Town, has most shops and facilities available, with daily boats leaving for the neighbouring islands. A limited variety of accommodation is available, mostly in the town and early booking is advisable. The Tourist Information Centre (01720422892) will provide the necessary brochures.  A particular recommendation might be Star Castle, built in 1597 in the form of an eight pointed star, on the hill top above the town. With its solid,  thick walls, surrounding battery and wonderful views, it has been loving updated to become the winner of the 2009 Island Hotel of the Year award. It is very expensive—but impossibly romantic-the venue for a special occasion?

Walking is varied on St Mary’s with beautiful rocky coastal paths and extensive views leading to secluded bays of fine white sand or along quiet lanes in the interior, with virtually no motorised traffic. Tresco has downland, castles and of course, the famous Abbey Gardens while St Martin’s is noted for long sandy beaches and boasts the most southerly vineyard in Britain. Bryher and St Agnes are also well worth exploring on an afternoon walk.

To follow a long tree shaded lane to the seaside graveyard at Old Town on  an early summer evening, with nothing but birdsong and a distant calling cuckoo in the ears, to sit quietly near the grave of the late Prime Minister Harold Wilson and absorb the utter peace and tranquillity of the surroundings, is a reminder of how Mr and Mrs Wilson , in the midst of busy lives, returned each year for forty years to their humble cottage near Hugh Town, to find a slower pace of life.

That tranquillity is still available and what better way to enjoy than on foot.

Ronnie Carser 

 

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